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Restaurants, vocabulary, and tips
Consider bringing a good pocket-sized guide to menu and food-related terms, such as the Marling Menu-Master for France .
For an excellent intro to French restaurants, choosing where to eat, differences between brasserie/bistro/café/restaurant, click here.
Where to eat??
- First, read the excellent explanation at the link above.
- You probably can't go wrong by picking selections from the well-known guide books, BUT: try to get off the beaten path sometimes, or you may find yourself constantly surrounded by American tourists, all of whom have read the same guides, especially at dinner if you eat before 8 p.m. By law, all restaurants must post their menus outside, so you can get an idea of the choices before you go in.
- If you have a special restaurant in mind, reserve well ahead of time, and remember that many are not open seven days a week.
- If you want to eat at one of the "top" restaurants without paying top prices, consider going for lunch rather than dinner. Most offer "prix fixe" lunch "packages" (e.g., appetizer + main course + dessert) that are significantly less expensive than the same items ordered at dinnertime. The downside is that you can't choose from the entire menu--only the choices offered.
A few pointers on eating in French restaurants:
- Timing--Many restaurants do not begin dinner service until 8pm. You may want to have a something to eat in the afternoon to tide you over if you're used to an earlier dinner. If you want to dine earlier, brasseries and bistros often offer non-stop service.
- Tipping--A 15% tip is (by law) already included in the check. If you are particularly pleased by the service, you can leave a bit extra, from just a couple of 10 Euro cent pieces for a coffee or a soft drink, to 1-5 euros for a lunch or dinner, or up to 5 to 10 percent of the total check.
- Getting the check--Unless the waitperson is about to go on a break, he or she will not bring the bill until you ask for it.
- Ask for your server using "Monsieur," etc. Waiters haven't been called "garçon" in years.
Food activities
- Paris On Your Plate™ Cheese & Wine and Chocolate & Wine tastings, and Cheese & Wine Tasting Lunch.
- Partage et Saveurs: A market visit and cooking class offered by a delightful Parisian woman in a private apartment. An authentic and thoroughly enjoyable experience. Available in French or English.
- Skip restaurants a few times and instead, compose your own picnic or eat-in from goodies purchased at charcuteries, boulangeries, fromageries, and open-air markets.
SHOPPING IN PARIS!
A few pointers
- Sales tax: A national sales tax of roughly 11 to 20% (called TVA, or value-added tax) is already included in all prices. If you buy more than 175 euros worth of merchandise in a single store in a single day, most (but not all) stores will provide the paperwork needed to get a refund of the tax at upon your departure from the European Union. The procedure varies by store. Click here for more information, and also be sure to ask at the information desk at the store..before you make the purchase.
- At two of the big department stores, Galeries Lafayette and Printemps, get a discount card good for 10% off most purchases at the information desk. You just need to show your passport.
- As in any large city, pickpockets abound in tourist-filled areas. Signs are posted to that effect in the métro system, but it also applies to stores: while shopping and paying, keep a solid hold on your wallet/bag/purse at all times.
Food/food-related items
As indicated above, arrange some meals from fresh goodies purchased at local shops and open-air markets.
Gourmet food items to bring home can be found at the following (luscious) food emporiums:
Hediard--21 Place de la Madeleine, 8ème (with smaller boutiques at:
31 avenue George V,
(75008), Gare de Lyon--Galerie des Fresques (75012), 106 boulevard de Courcelles (75017) and
7 0 avenue Paul Doumer (75116))
Fauchon--30 place de la Madeleine, 8ème
Galeries Lafayette--40 Blvd. Haussmann, 9ème (entrance across the street from Galeries Lafayette Maison)
La Grand Epicerie--across the street from Le Bon Marché department store, at 38 Rue de Sèvres, 7ème
For some great foodie souvenir ideas, click here.
Department stores
Galeries Lafayette
40 blvd Haussmann, 75009
(www.galerieslafayette.com)
Métro: Chaussée-d'Antin, Opéra, Havre-Caumartin, RER Auber and Haussman St. Lazare |
Three buildings to explore: One with biggest space in Europe entirely devoted to menswear along with the mouth-watering gourmet supermarket Lafayette Gourmet, the five-floor Galeries Lafayette Maison for all home goods, and the original store, with a breathtaking stained-glass dome in its middle, a center for designer fashion, makeup and perfume. Free fashion shows on Friday at 3pm from Easter to October, and free 10%-off-most-items passes for visitors at the information desk.
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Printemps
64 blvd Haussmann,
75009
(www.printemps.com)
Métro: Havre-Caumartin, RER Auber |
Just across the street from Galeries Lafayette, this grand magasin is housed in three buildings, including one classified as a national monument, with a spectacular Art Deco cupola. Along with designer fashions and luxury goods, and perhaps the largest beauty store in the world, it also offers a number of restaurants, including a rooftop cafeteria with a panoramic view of the city. Also offers free 10%-off-most-items passes for visitors.
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Le Bon Marché
24 rue de Sèvres, 75007
(www.lebonmarche.fr)
Métro: Sèvres-Babylone
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A "bon marché" means "a good buy" but the prices are not discount in this, the world's first department store, and the only one on the Left Bank. With a turn-of-the-century dome crowning a beautiful atrium encircled by iron-draped balconies, the store is a luxury center for designer fashion, beauty items, and home furnishings--not to mention its gorgeous lingerie department and La Grand Epicerie, the gourmet food supermarket next store to the main building. |
BHV
52-64, rue de Rivoli, Paris 75004
(www.bhv.fr)
Métro: Hôtel de Ville |
The initials stand for "Bazar de l'Hôtel de Ville," since the Paris town hall (l'hôtel de ville) is right across the street. While it does carry a wide selection of clothing, it doesn't carry top design fashions as do the other "Big Three," but what it lacks in glamour, it makes up in range, particularly for anything you might EVER need for your home. The basement is an emporium of tools, widgets, and every plumbing and electrical item imaginable. There are large fabric, stationery, framing, and book departements, and a finish-hardware department with possibly the widest selection of doorknobs, levers, and drawer pulls on the planet. |
Bookstores
In addition to the bookstores listed below, keep in mind:
- museum bookstores (often have an excellent selection, and often books in English)
- the bouquiniste stalls along the Seine (Click here for a little history about les bouquinistes.)
Books in English:
Abbey Bookstore
(http://s148367129.onlinehome.fr/)
29 rue de la Parcheminerie, 75005
Tel: 01 46 33 16 24
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Second-hand books |
Berkeley Books of Paris
(www.berkeley booksof paris.com)
8 rue Casimir Delavigne, 75006 |
Second-hand books
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Brentano's
(www.brentanos.fr)
37 avenue de l'Opéra, 75002 Tel: 01 42 61 52 50
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Large store; also carries books in French |
Galignani
224 rue de Rivoli 75001
Tel: 01 42 60 76 07 |
Large store; also carries books in French |
Red Wheelbarrow Bookstore (www.theredwheelbarrow.com)
22 rue St Paul, 75004 |
Nice selection of new books in a pleasant atmosphere in the Marais. |
San Francisco Book Co.
(www.sanfranciscobooksparis.com)
17 Rue Monsieur le Prince, 75006
Tel: 01 43 29 15 70 |
Second-hand books |
Shakespeare & Company
(www.shakespeareco.org) 37 rue de la Bûcherie, 75005 Tel: 01 43 26 96 50 |
A legendary used book store |
Tea & Tattered Pages
(www.teaandtatteredpages.com)
24, rue Mayet, 75006 Tel: 01 40 65 94 35 |
Second-hand books; has a pleasant tea room |
Village Voice
(www.villagevoicebookshop.com)
6, rue Princesse, 75006 Tel: 01 46 33 36 47 |
Good selection of both fiction and nonfiction, including new releases. |
W.H.Smith
(www.whsmith.fr)
248 rue de Rivoli 75001 Tel: 01 44 77 88 99 |
Large store; good selection of magazines and newspapers. |
Books in French:
(In addition to those listed, don't neglect the many wonderful smaller shops all across the city.)
FNAC
Three locations :
- 74 av. des Champs-Elysées, 75008, Métro: George V, Charles de Gaulle Etoile
- Forum des Halles--
Porte Lescot, 75001, Métro: Châtelet-Les Halles
- Montparnasse area--136 rue de Rennes, 75006, Métro: Rennes, St-Placide
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Large store that also carries electronics, DVDs, and music |
Gibert Joseph
26-34 boulevard Saint Michel,
75006, Métro: St. Michel |
One of the two large bookstores in the Latin Quarter.
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Gibert Jeune
10 place St-Michel, 75006,
Métro: St. Michel.
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One of the two large bookstores in the Latin Quarter. |
Librairie Epona
7 rue Jean du Bellay, 75004
(on Ile St. Louis) |
Specializes in books and other materials on the archeology and related history of Paris. |
Librairie Gourmande
(https://melbourne.magic.fr/librairie-gourmande/main.asp)
90 rue Montmartre 75002
Métro: Sentier or Etienne Marcel |
Specializes in culinary books. |
Mona Lisait
(www.monalisait.fr/)
For locations, see website and click on “points de vente.” |
Has six locations across the city. Carries both new (often discounted) and used books. |
Virgin Megastore
52-60 Avenue des Champs-Elysées 75008
Métro: Franklin Roosevelt |
The basement level of this huge music/video store has a large book section. |
BHV, Galeries Lafayette, Printemps |
Each of these three large department stores carries a large selection of books—see addresses above under “Department Stores.” |
Open-air markets
Open-air markets are one of the great pleasures of Paris, whether you're here for a week or a lifetime. They're filled with a rainbow of colors, the laughing sounds and banter of merchants joking with potential customers, and a bountiful selections of beautiful, delicious food. If you have access to a kitchen, you can pick up fresh food for an entire meal. If you're at a hotel, don't let that stop you--think picnic. Along with the food, many markets also have stalls selling spices, jams, jewelry, clothing, leather goods, and more.
Which one to choose? You'll probably do just fine at whichever one is closest to you, but some are bigger than others (for example, the one at Bastille is HUGE) so you might want to experiment if you have time. Also, don't forget to check out the market streets.
The following list is arranged by arrondissement. Hours: All are generally 9am-1pm. Most open earlier and stay open later, but not all vendor
Bastille (11eme)
Thursday, Sunday |
Blvd Richard Lenoir
Metro Bastille |
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Maubert (5th)
Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday
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Place Maubert
Metro Maubert |
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Monge (5th)
Wednesday, Friday, Sunday
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Place Monge
Metro Place Monge |
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Raspail (6eme)
Tuesday, Friday, Sunday (organic)
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blvd Raspail between rue du Cherche Midi and rue de Rennes
Metro Rennes or Sevres Babylone |
Rennes is closed on Sunday. |
Président Wilson (16eme)
Wednesday, Saturday
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center divider strip of ave. du Président Wilson between rue Debrousse and place d'Iéna
Metro: Alma Marceau, Iéna |
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