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All content © Copyright Paris On Your Plate, LLC 2007
French culture and language
You will more deeply enjoy your visit if you take time to learn a bit about French culture. Remember that you are choosing to be in a place foreign to your own—expect differences.
> Speaking the language
You'll have more fun if you invest in a phrase book and learn some basic phrases before your trip.
Do not assume everyone does, or should, speak English. Two pieces of wisdom from www.AnAmericaninParis.com:
1. Speaking loudly does not make someone understand English who does not understand English.
2. The French do not secretly speak English and only pretend not to speak it when Americans are around.
As for the first, don’t laugh, I’ve seen people do this a million times. As for the second, it is true that many French people have studied some (but often not much) English in school, but many are quite hesitant to use it, particularly if it was long ago, simply because they think they sound awful. Young people, however, are usually excited about trying out their recently-acquired English. If you use some basic phrases—however embarrassed you may feel—you will encourage the French to do the same.
Larger stores and restaurants will usually have some staff who speak English but smaller businesses often will not. Restaurants in tourist areas will often have menu items translated into English.
>Debunking the "rude French" stereotype
I am convinced this stereotype is based on the experiences of culturally-insensitive Americans. If you keep in mind a few aspects of French culture, you will find that French people are exceptionally warm and helpful:
- Learn even a little French and try to use it as often as possible. It will change everything about your encounters.
- French people speak far more softly in public places than Americans. When in restaurants, it is difficult or impossible to overhear the conversation of French people at the next table, even if you speak French, no matter how close the tables are. In restaurants and in the metro, it is almost always the (louder) voices of Americans that can be heard. Keep the decibel level down, and you will not be viewed as rude!
- Americans greet strangers with a smile. The French generally do not. They are not being unfriendly, the culture is simply not one in which people grin at strangers. It is a more formal culture, not a rude one. Don’t mistake a lack of a smile for rudeness or lack of friendliness.
- Always remember to address people with Madame, Monsieur, etc. E.g., “Excusez moi, Madame…” Not to do so is considered rude.
- When approaching people to ask for directions, etc., do not start immediately with your question. Always precede it with, “Excusez moi, Madame/Monsieur…”
- Contrary to American custom, when entering a French store it is expected that the customer will greet the storekeeper. A “Bonjour, Madame/Monsieur” is expected and will go a long way.
- In restaurants, waiters will not bring the check until you ask. They are not ignoring you: in French restaurants, you generally have the table as long as you want, so the waiter waits for your cue.
- In restaurants, do not expect the exuberant American "Hi there folks, I'm Jeff, and I'll be your server today!" Again, they're not being rude, they're just not being American.
For an excellent explanation and insight into these and other cultural differences, see Chapter 1 of French or Foe: Getting the Most out of Visiting, Living and Working in France, by Polly Platt.
Getting Your Bearings--Geography 101
Paris is a city of 41 square miles (105 sq. km), about eleven miles wide and almost six miles long. [A comparison: Manhattan is 23.7 sq. miles: 13.4 miles (21.5 km) long by 2.3 miles (3.7 km) wide at its widest point.]
There are about eleven million people living in the Paris metropolitan area, and around two million living within the city limits (the area within the boulevard périphérique, the expressway that encircles the city). This means that Paris has roughly the same population as Los Angeles. Although Paris is similar to Los Angeles in terms of population, it is smaller in terms of area, especially when you look at the city proper, which is only a few kilometres wide.
The Seine river flows from east to west through the middle of Paris, dividing the city in half. The area north of the Seine is called the “Rive Droite”, or Right Bank, and the area south of the river is called the “Rive Gauche,” or Left Bank. There are two small islands in the middle of the Seine: Ile de la Cité (location of Notre Dame cathedral) and Ile St. Louis. The two banks, and the islands, are connected by more than twenty bridges, many of them historic and beautiful. (One Paris "must" is to take a boat ride along the river. There are a number of companies that offer river cruises--a good summary is at Fodor's website.
The city is divided into 20 political units called arrondissements that are arranged in a clockwise spiral beginning with the first arrondissement, whose southern edge is along the Seine on the Right Bank. Except for the first arrondissement, which is abbreviated as 1er (premier, or first), the others are designated by 2ème (deuxième, or second), etc.
Practical Paris
No website can substitute, even remotely, for a good guidebook. Website resources should be considered a supplement to the more extensive narrative and opinions only a guidebook can provide. As for online information, you can spend days poking around online, gathering info here and there. Don't bother; here are links to three terrific and comprehensive websites to scour before your trip.
www.anamericaninparis.com This non-commercial site is a huge and well-organized collection of practical information and useful tips, from electricity to getting around: you name it, it's there.
http://en.parisinfo.com This site is provided by the city of Paris itself (in English). It contains a wealth of information about the city's museums, monuments, events, tours and excursions, "What's On" (concerts and activities), and much, much more. If the site lapses into French, look for and click on the icon that's half British flag/half American flag.
www.discoverfrance.net/France/Paris/index.shtml An excellent compendium of information for visitors to Paris.
Take the time to do a little research and develop a partial itinerary before your trip to make the most of your time. A plan can also allow you to group activities by location so that you spend less time criss-crossing the city.
If it's your first trip, don't cram every minute full of hurried trips from one famous site to another. Accept that it's impossible to see it all and slow down and savor each experience. Ten years from now, what you will remember most fondly is the time you spend sitting somewhere special and watching the world go by, meandering down narrow medieval streets, trying out new tastes at cheese shops and boulangeries, and enjoying some special activities. Allow time to sit at a sidewalk cafe, or on a bridge, or on a bench in the courtyard of the Louvre or one of the city's magnificent parks and just absorb the sights, the sounds, the beauty and the ambiance of it all.
Three tips for the first time visitor:
1. Take a several-hour bus tour around the city offered by a number of companies (good info at Fodor's website) early in your trip, perhaps while jet lag is still slowing you down. You'll get a relaxed, birds' eye view of it all while seeing the lay of the land and the city's character.
2. Consider a stop, preferably early in your trip, at Paris Story, near the Garnier Opera/grands magasins (Printemps, Galeries Lafayette). On a panoramic screen, with Victor Hugo appearing via holographic video, you'll experience a fascinating and moving introduction to the city. (www.paristory.FR). The show is highly recommended even by native Parisians.
3. Paris is a marvelous city for walking. There are endless places to explore, and walking is pleasant, since it is quite a flat city in most places. Unless you plan to take taxis, your knees and feet will get a solid workout both walking and navigating the many steps of the métro system (the bus system is far easier on legs, but tricker to understand.) Be sure to bring comfortable walking shoes (tested at home!) If you have mobility difficulties, be honest with yourself about your limitations as you plan your trip. Be realistic about your itinerary, and, if necessary, allow ample room in your budget for taxi fares.
4. When planning your itinerary, check to see if any French holidays fall during your trip--stores, smaller restaurants, and other places may be closed on those days, and public transportation is likely to follow a different/lighter schedules. Also, if a holiday falls on a Tuesday or Thursday, smaller establishments may be closed on the day before (Monday) or after (Friday).
5. If you have specific popular restaurants in mind, reserve well ahead of time.
A word about climate
For a very general idea of Paris temperature ranges, here is a chart of past average ranges by month:
However, the keyword for weather in Paris is VARIABLE. For example, summer days can be hot, sunny, and humid...or cool and drizzly. And temperatures can vary significantly from the above chart. For an excellent description of various aspects of Paris weather, see the two Paris weather FAQs at Anthony's Home Page.
Just before your trip, check the upcoming forecast at a site like CNN's Paris weather or at www.weather.com. (Note that a forecast of rain often means just intermittent drizzle.) Even after checking the forecast, be prepared for a range of weather. Even if it's May, bring a jacket. And, no matter the season, bring rain gear. London may have a reputation for drizzle, but Paris can be gray and drizzly...OFTEN. There are rarely days of steady rain, so it's almost always possible to walk pleasantly between the raindrops, but a compact umbrella and light raincoat (with room underneath for layers, if needed) are a smart move.
Temperature tip: In France, weather temperature is measured in Celsius rather than Farenheit. To make a quick conversion to Farenheit, double the Celsius temperature, then add 30.
Eating and shopping
Click here for the Paris OnYour Plate™ Food and Shopping Guide.
Tipping
Click here for an excellent guide.
Meeting people in Paris
There are many organized activities if you'd like meet other people while you're in town, including:
Paris Soirées Sunday dinners and Wednesday networking cocktail
Parler Parlor (a great way to practice your French with French people)
Jim Haynes Sunday dinners
Teatime/Talktime Saturdays from 5-8 pm (English spoken 1/2 time, French 1/2 time)
Domingo's Tuesday dinners
Meetup.com
A good description of Paris Soirées' and Jim Haynes' dinners is here.
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